Everything about Tailcoat totally explained
A
tailcoat, sometimes a
swallow-tail coat is the coat traditionally worn by men for
white tie dress, for very formal evening occasions.
A tailcoat is waist length in the front and sides, and has two long tails reaching to the knees in back. (Sometimes with a pocket on the inside meant to hold
gloves). In this respect the tailcoat is a modification of the older
frock coat: the frock coat goes down to the knees all the way around, and the lower edge of its other descendant, the
morning coat or cutaway, slants diagonally from the waist in front to the knees in back, the tailcoat is cut away more dramatically across.
The tailcoat traditionally also has
satin facings on the
lapels, is double breasted, and meets but doesn't fasten in the front. (There are two rows of buttons, all non-functional.)
It is normally worn with a white wing-collar
dress shirt with
single cuffs fastened with
cufflinks, a matching white
bowtie and
waistcoat, black trousers, and black
patent leather shoes with leggings.
Although regarded as formal wear today, like all such "formal wear" it's based upon standard fashions of earlier times. Tailcoats, sometimes called a "claw-hammer", would be standard day-to-day wear in the 1830's to 1850's. A period photo of President
James Buchanan and his cabinet shows a group of men all wearing this type of garment. Indeed the tailcoat was considered de rigueur for men during the
English Regency era.
During the
War of 1812 a single breasted version was worn in all ranks.
A variation used by some
horseback riders in certain riding disciplines is called a
shadbelly.
Further Information
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